Fresh on the heels of a largely self-guided 11 day, 10 city tour of Morocco, we have compiled a series of travel tips to help you travel well, save money and make the most out of your Moroccan adventure.
Morocco Travel Essentials: Know Before You Go
Our pre-trip research yielded a fair bit of conflicting (and unhelpful) information so we wanted to start off with some trip planning basics.
Cash is King
Foreign credit cards are not widely accepted, so plan to spend cash. Morocco’s official currency is the dirham (MAD), effectively a “closed” currency which is useless outside of Morocco. Try to plan your cash withdrawals so that you use your MAD during your trip (in a pinch you can always exchange unused MAD at the airport, though you will lose on the exchange rate).
Fortunately, ATM machines are widely available in major cities (not so much in the mountains and desert!) and they are your best bet for getting a fair exchange rate, as discussed in our article on how to save money when exchanging currency.
For Scotiabank and Tangerine customers looking to take advantage of the Global ATM Alliance, BNP does have a small retail presence in Morocco. We would recommend funding one or two bank accounts in advance and perhaps getting a STACK card.
Make sure you set travel notifications with your banks before you go, so that your debit and credit cards are not declined.
Change is Scarce
The ATMs will dispense MAD in 100 and 200 denominations. This is where some of the travel games begin: many vendors (and even museums!) will not give you change. And, most things cost far less than MAD 100. Plan to break your MAD into smaller note denominations and coins, where possible.
We found that hotel desks and established grocery stores were the most reliable sources of change.
Free WiFi vs Local SIM Card
Free wifi is widely available in hotels, restaurants and cafes. In other public areas, not so much. To stay connected (even in the desert!) we would recommend getting a local SIM Card, as discussed in our article on how to cut your phone bill while travelling.
Maroc Telecom seemed to have the widest coverage. 10 days worth of voice and data only cost about $10. A small price to pay to stay connected.
Maroc Telecom (and other telcom companies) have kiosks in the major airports but the kiosks aren’t able to activate the SIM Card. For that reason we recommend going to a full service location where you can active the SIM Card on-site and avoid potential issues.
Mapsme Beats Google Maps
Don’t want to get lost in the labyrinth-like medinas of Marrakech and Fes ? (Trust us, you don’t!) We highly recommend downloading Mapsme, a free app, before you leave. Mapsme works offline and provides extremely detailed walking instructions, which are particularly useful in the medinas.
The only issue will be the battery drain on your phone, so charge your phone regularly and carry a back-up power supply.
Remember, though, safety first. Exercise common sense and caution when using any GPS app: they will give you the quickest, but not necessarily safest, route to your destination. Stick to the major streets, where possible, particularly at night. Fortunately, Mapsme will dynamically re-route you as you walk.
Make Bus Reservations in Advance
CTM is, by far, the best bus operator in Morocco. It offers modern, comfortable, air conditioned coaches between major cities. And while Morocco offers Africa’s first high speed train system, it has a limited footprint and does not service all of the major tourist cities.
CTM bus tickets can sell out quickly and while you can book a ticket online at CTM’s website or by using CTM’s mobile app, there is a 72-hour advance purchase requirement when using a foreign credit card.
Miss out on the CTM and it’s a big step down in comfort (not to mention safety) to the next bus line (which often travels with the front door open for ventilation!). Then again, if you are adventurous, like Mr. Thrifty, you could bargain your fare for a not-so-grand “grand taxi”…….
Local Taxis
Local (or “petit”) taxis are cheap and readily available, but don’t expect them to turn on the meter. Agree on a price before you get in. For a baseline, we tended to ask our hotel how much a ride should cost. We were generally given good guidance. Note, too, that taxis will often stop enroute to pick up additional passengers — so don’t be alarmed when this happens.
You Call That a Tout ?
Travel books and fellow tourists alike warned about the aggressive touts to be found in Morocco, particularly in the medinas of Fes and Marrakech. However, the touts would be considered mild for anyone who has travelled extensively in Asia.
For the less experienced, please keep in mind a few basic principles:
- politely ignore people who are trying to get your attention (often by saying “this way”)
- avoid the many people offering to give you directions or act as “guides”
- guides are never free, even when they claim they are not guides and are free
- never follow anyone down a side street and
- use common sense above all.
Parlez-Vous Francais ?
This is where your high school French will finally pay off!
Arabic and Berber are official languages in Morocco but French is widely spoken. Moreover, we found that a little French goes a long way: speaking French, however rusty your language skills, is likely to elicit a more friendly response from a local than speaking English.
Morocco Travel Gear Tips
Essential Items
We recommend travelling light! Mr. Thrifty successfully put his favourite minimalist travel gear items to the test. They passed with flying colors.
Minimalist Travel Gear in Action: 11 days worth of clothes, no laundry needed 
Packing Cubes, Day Pack, Money Belt 
Easy to Store Too!
The following items in our travel gear article, as seen above, came in particularly handy.
Osprey Farpoint 40
It served us well again, allowing us to make the entire journey with a single bag that we could carry as a backpack where necessary.
This point really hit home at our riad in Marrakech, where we witnessed a falling out between one member of a small travel group and her companions. She decided to break from the group and look for another riad. The desk clerk summoned a man with a cart from the street to carry her oversized luggage as she walked from riad to riad in search of alternative accommodation.
Can’t imagine that ended too well.
Packing Cubes
Zero chance everything would have fit in a single bag without packing cubes.
Lanney Money Belt
It was hardly a fashion statement and gave rise to a number of good-natured (?) jokes. But the labyrinth-like medinas of Fes and Marrakech, with all of their distractions, are a haven for pick pockets. Having our valuables secure removed one worry and allowed us to focus on enjoying the medinas.
Macks Silicone Earplugs
Important when sharing a tent in the Sahara. Probably more important for Mr. Thrifty’s travel mates! But Mr. Thrifty wouldn’t know – he was sound asleep.
Cottonelle Flushable Wipes
Need we say more ? Trust Mr. Thrifty on this one. The outhouse in the Atlas Mountains wasn’t exactly fully stocked. Mr. Thrifty even had a square to spare for his friends.
A Packable Day Pack
This item once again proved to be a winner and we’ll add it to our recommended travel gear for the minimalist. (Yes, this Moroccan goat skin pouf really did fit in the day pack….with plenty of room to spare).
A Good Sun Hat
Purchased a sun hat before departing and it came in handy. There’s nothing special about it, so any wide-brimmed sun hat with neck protection should do the trick. The sun in the desert can be unforgiving. Again, not exactly a fashion statement…
Items We Could Have Done Without
A Shemagh
“You have to buy a shemagh”.
Well, no, not really. Pre-trip research recommended buying one in advance, rather than getting ripped off in Morocco, so we settled on this well-reviewed one from Amazon. It was cheap (expected) and unnecessary. There were far better ones available on the way to the desert for a modest 50 MAD.
We’ll use it to stuff the pouf.
A Hanging Toiletry Kit
In search of a new addition to the minimalist gear, we settled on this well-reviewed item. It was good enough, but really didn’t save us any space…..not compact enough for the minimalist !
Now, onto the trip details….
Casablanca: A Modern City with Little Tourist Appeal
If you are looking to experience the rich history of Morocco, there are more interesting cities than Casablanca. We found Casablanca to be a large cosmopolitan city without much charm compared to, say, Fes or Marrakech.
That said, we can offer two practical tips:
- Airport Ground Transportation. If you are arriving at Casablanca’s Mohammed V Airport and looking for the CTM bus to the city center, don’t waste your time. We read about this online as the cheaper transit option but could not find the bus stop and were told there was no such bus. There is a train station at the airport itself where you can catch a 40 minute ride to the city center, at a reasonable price.
- Rick’s Cafe. Fans of the movie Casablanca will enjoy Rick’s Cafe. Yes, there are probably better, more authentic dinner options in Casablanca. We went to Rick’s Cafe fully expecting an overpriced tourist trap. We found an overpriced tourist trap with very good food. A nice place to relax at the end of a long day.
Tangier: Where Africa Meets Europe
Tangier feels much like an extension of Europe — which shouldn’t be much of a surprise. After all, Spain is a mere 30 minute ferry ride away.
Getting to Tangier
Travelling from Tangier from Casablanca was a terrific experience — a relaxing 2-½ hour ride on Africa’s first high speed train.
Getting Around Tangier
We found that the best way to experience the city was by foot, where you can take in the sights and sounds of the medina and ville nouvelle. That said, if you are pressed for time and looking to take in as many sites as possible for a reasonable price, the hop-on, hop-off city tour bus is an option.
Thrifty Tips and Recommendations for Tangier
Best Cafes
Cafe Hafa. No trip to Tangier would be complete without a visit to Cafe Hafa. Take in the stunning vistas, which include Spain off in the distance, while enjoying a mint tea.
Café Hafa in Tangier – Stop by ! 
The view from Café Hafa (that is Spain in the distance)
Cinema Rif. Not in the category of Cafe Hafa, but if you are looking to take a break from all the walking in the medina, a coffee, tea or beer at Cinema Rif, set back from the busy Place 9 Avril, offers a welcome respite with atmosphere.
Gran Cafe de Paris. “Pick up the phone, Nicky.” If you are a fan of the Bourne movies (who isn’t ???) you really must stop here.
Best Meal for Seafood Lovers. Saveur de Poisson
If you don’t trust the venerable Anthony Bourdain then trust Mr. Thrifty. Go early if you can. There will be a line. You will want to wait. And you will have a terrific meal. Prix fixe, set menu. Just sit back and enjoy the food and the experience.
Overrated: Le Number One
Recommended by the usually reliable New York Times, we beg to disagree. Unfortunately, it would not be the first time the New York Times let us down this trip. If you are looking for a quaint, smoke-filled bar with local wannabe literary types, do stop by. Otherwise, we suggest you take a pass.
Hercules Caves: Nice if You Can Make It
Ok, we’ll admit that this was cool – particularly the part of the cave shaped like Africa. It’s a stop on the hop-on, hop-off bus but it’ll take you quite a while if you’re going that route. So, factor that in if you are pressed for time.
We were able to negotiate a reasonable fare with our entertaining taxi driver, “Johnny” (a self-adopted nickname for his striking resemblance to the late French rocker, Johnny Hallyday). If you are reading, Johnny, thank you.
Chefchaouen: The Blue City
The Blue City in the Rif Mountains
Chefchaouen is a picturesque city set in the Rif Mountains and well worth a visit. The walls and buildings of the old city are all blue, which gives the city a postcard-like feel (the mystique of the blue city was somewhat lost when we saw someone in the early morning hours painting the side of a building blue! We knew it wasn’t a natural phenomenon. But still…)
Getting to Chefchaouen
Unfortunately, there is no train to Chefchaouen, which leaves the bus, private taxi and grand taxi as your transit options. Since the CTM bus times were inconvenient and we did not book in advance we experimented with a grand taxi.
What is a “Grand” Taxi ? A shared minivan, which seats 6. It should seat 4. Getting a grand taxi from Tangier to Chefchaouen is fairly easy: you go to the main bus station where a “finder” will undoubtedly find you and bring you to the staging area where vans are queued up and ready to go. Grand taxis depart as soon as they are filled up (or you can pay for the vacant seats — highly recommended and a small price to pay for the extra space).
Cautionary Note: The road from Chefchaouen can be narrow and winding, which places a premium on your driver’s skill. Here, we lucked out with our driver, Bobby (our nickname for him, given his striking resemblance to a young Robert De Niro). In retrospect, a CTM bus would have been the wiser (and more cost-effective) option.
Thrifty Tips and Recommendations for Chefchaouen
Site Seeing
Chefchaouen is a city which can easily be experienced in a day. There are only 2 main “sites” in Chefchaouen: the riverwalk and the Spanish mosque. The charm in Chefchaouen lies in experiencing the village itself, without the touts that await you in Fes or Marrakech.
Akchour Waterfalls
If you enjoy hiking and have more than a day, consider a hike to the Akchour Waterfalls. Locals recommended this to us. Unfortunately, time did not permit us to make this side trip.
Best Authentic Meal
Bab Ssour. This was a recommendation from our hotel and it was a winner. We highly recommend for a good meal in a relaxing yet historic atmosphere. We didn’t have time for the homemade blackberry yogurt, but it did look good. Very good.
Fes: The Real Morocco
In many ways, it felt as if the real Moroccan experience started in Fes.
Getting to Fes
The only realistic way to get from Chefchaouen to Fes is by bus. (Even if you wanted to take a grand taxi, there’s no obvious taxi stand and no direct grand taxi to Fes). With that in mind, we took the CTM bus and were glad we did.
Thrifty Tips and Recommendations for Fes
Your time in Fes is best spent taking in the sights, sounds and general atmosphere of the medina, where all the main tourist attractions are located.
We recommend you heed the local advice: the medina “closes” around 8pm. Of course, the medina doesn’t really close but it does become rather desolate after 8pm and you really don’t want to be wandering around the medina at night.
Best Authentic Meal
Darori. An authentic, high quality meal set in a historic riad in the medina with unparalleled hospitality by the owner, Amina, and the host for the evening, Mohamed. This tied with Saveur de Poisson as the best meal of the trip.
The unassuming entrance to Darori 
The Darori dining room
Best Drink With a View
Palais de Fes. The rooftop bar at the Palais de Fes, a historic riad right outside a gate to the medina, offers a relaxing break from the action.
Rooftop bar at the Palais de Fes 
The well-appointed interior
What We Would Avoid
Here, the usually reliable New York Times steered us wrong again.
We arrived in Fes after 8pm and had wanted to eat at Darori, which is open late. But, heeding the local advice, we decided to stay clear of the medina. We went in search of authentic Moroccan street food – recommended by the New York Times 36 Hours in Fes. We wound up at a food court in a shopping mall. It was our worst meal of the trip. Trust us, if you have 36 Hours in Fes you don’t want to spend a second of your time in a food court.
To add insult to injury we learned the next day that Darori actually sends staff to meet people at the entrance to the medina and walk them to the restaurant (and back again following their meal).
Meknes, Volubilis and Moulay Idriss: A Worthwhile Day Trip from Fes
The city of Meknes is a short 40 minute train ride from Fes and a convenient jumping off point for the nearby cities/attractions of Volubilis and Moulay Idriss. If you have seen enough of Fes and are looking for something different, we highly recommend Volubilis and Moulay Idriss. (Being pressed for time we decided to skip Meknes.)
Getting to Volubilis and Moulay Idriss
You have two main options: the city bus and a grand taxi. Trying to see both Volubilis and Moulay Idriss in a half day, we opted for a grand taxi. If you are not pressed for time and are on a budget, you may want to investigate the bus option, which would be substantially cheaper.
Thrifty Tips and Recommendations
Grand Taxis depart from the Institut Francais, a short taxi ride (10 MAD) from the train station. Like everything else, pricing is determined by supply and demand.
Thrifty Tip: See the grand taxi before you agree on a price! We thought we had negotiated a good deal on the grand taxi and were then led to what appeared to be a 40 year old Mercedes. When we saw the grandeur of the grand taxi, the negotiator laughed and we laughed too.
This taxi would have been grand 40 years ago. 
Interior of the not-so-grand taxi.
Onto the Sahara
No comprehensive tour of Morocco would be complete without a trip through the Atlas Mountains and Sahara. We booked a 3 day/2 night package through Viator, which was decent enough.
Thrifty Tips and Recommendations
Riding a camel at sunset in the desert will be one of the highlights of your trip.
To make the most of this moment, keep your driver on schedule (easier said than done, if you are part of a shared tour). Our group arrived at base camp in the Sahara just as the sun was about to set. A number of groups arrived before us. We would have gladly traded a half hour spent taking pictures at a rest stop for an extra half hour in the desert.
Base Camp in the Sahara: Less Rustic Than You Might Imagine. Mr. Thrifty would later put his musical talents on display with those drums.
Consider a tour that spends less time in the mountains and more time in the desert. Yes the panoramas were a site to behold, but they all tend to look the same after a while. Seeing the Hollywood of Morocco was cool too. Riding a dune buggy in the desert would have been a more fun experience.
Panoramic view of the Atlas Mountains 
Ait ben Haddou in the Atlas Mountains. Fans of Gladiator and Game of Thrones may recognize this site. 
Hollywood of Morocco. Aladdin was recently filmed here.
Marrakech: More Commercial, Less Charming than Fes
Marrakech offered more of a commercial experience than, say, Fes. There were far more touts on the street and they were far more persistent than in Fes.
Thrifty Tips and Recommendations
Start Your Day Early To Avoid the Queues
Marrakech had far more tourists, many on organized tours, which meant more waiting at the popular sites. To save time at the Jardin Majorelle, buy your ticket online in advance of your visit.
Souvenirs Are Somewhat Pricier in Marrakech
More tourists = higher prices. You will generally find similar items cheaper in Fes and Chefchaouen. Factor in, though, your itinerary. We bought souvenirs in Marrakech because it was the last stop on our trip and we did not want to be weighed down by extra items as we travelled. If you are going to buy, we suggest you engage in some “price discovery” for a day before pulling the trigger.
Alcohol is Scarce in the Medina
If you are anything like Mr. Thrifty, you will enjoy a cold beverage — preferably something stronger than pomegranate juice — at the end of a long day in the heat. Fortunately for you, we’ve done the difficult leg work and can recommend two rooftop bars: the Sky Bar at the Renaissance Hotel and La Pergola (which has a daily happy hour).
Save Money at the Carrefour
A Carrefour is located just outside of the medina and, if you are in Marrakech for more than a few days and are looking to save money, is a worthwhile stop. Here you can find cheap basic provisions, beer and wine and even a souvenir or two (the argan oil available at the Carrefour is not only far cheaper but, we would guess, more authentic than what you will find at the local shops).
Most Unique Meal: Fries with that Camel Burger?
The Camel Burger at Cafe Clock. OK, we get it – a camel burger isn’t for everyone. But, if not now, when ? If you are curious, and we know you are, add it to your list!
Day Trip: Ouzoud Falls
If you are looking for a break from the bustle of Marrakech, consider a day trip to Ouzoud Falls, one of the tallest waterfalls in Africa. We booked an inexpensive excursion through Viator and enjoyed our time there. We did not, though, enjoy the tourist trap that awaited us — a “quasi mandatory” guide and a grossly overpriced lunch (even in relation to the restaurant’s regular menu….which we discovered on our way out). A little transparency would have been nice.
Thrifty Tip: If you make this side trip, try to ditch the local guide. If you cannot or do not want to ditch the local guide, avoid the overpriced lunch. The area is easily navigable on your own. Also, see if you can make this a half-day trip, not a full day trip. Enjoyable as it is, you can see it all in about 2 hours.
Returning to the Real Base Camp in Style: Priority Pass Lounges
Returning from Marrakech, Mr. Thrifty and his travelling mates flew Royal Air Maroc, with a stop in Casablanca. While a direct flight would have preferable, the three amigos were able to make the most of Priority Pass access with stops at the Pearl Lounges in both airports.
Priority Pass membership is available free with select credit cards, including the Scotia Passport Visa Infinite Card. Mr. Thrifty holds Priority Pass membership through Chase Sapphire, which gives unlimited lounge access to cardholders and up to 2 guests – perfect for this travelling group.
On a scale of 1 to 10, we’d rate the lounges a 5. Keep that in mind if you have a credit card with a limited number of free lounge visits. The lounges were easily a step up in comfort from the airport waiting area. The food was a step up from the airplane. And the booze flowed more easily than in Royal Air Maroc economy.
The Priority Pass Access on this trip alone paid for the credit card’s annual fee. In total, this trip provided 3 lounge visits for 3 people (including the KAL departure lounge at JKF). A fourth lounge, the arrivals lounge in Casablanca, was closed for renovations.
Entrance to the Pearl Lounge @ Casablanca Airport 
Spread at the Pearl Lounge Casablanca 
Entrance to the Pearl Lounge at Marrakech Airport 
Layout of the Pearl Lounge Marrakech 
Light Sandwich Selection (hot food to the side)
Looking for More Travel Tips and Recommendations? You May Want to Read These Articles:
Mr. Thrifty Takes a Road Trip: Finding Quality and Value in Mid Coast Maine
Mr. Thrifty Takes Miami – Tips for Saving Money While Enjoying Miami’s Best
Mr. Thrifty’s Proven Strategies to Save Money on Air Travel
How to Save Money When Exchanging Currency
How to Cut Your Phone Bill While Travelling
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